Grands Boulevards Itinerary: Where to Go, Eat & Shop
Paris Grands Boulevards Itinerary: Central Section
The central section of the Grand Boulevards is also the largest one. It covers the 1st, 2nd, and 9th arrondissements, and apart from containing some of the top things to do in Paris, it’s also a prime shopping area. To its north is the romantic hilltop neighborhood of Montmartre and to its south are the must-visit neighborhoods of Saint Germain and the Latin Quarter.
Places to See
:: Go Straight to Central Section Places to Eat & Drink
:: Go Straight to Central Section Pastry & Chocolate Shops
:: Go Straight to Central Section Places to Shop
Tuileries Gardens
Connecting the Louvre with Place de la Concorde, there are few more pleasant walks in Paris than walking the length of the Tuileries Gardens. Along with the Jardin du Luxembourg in Saint Germain, Paris can certainly claim to have two of the nicest urban parks in the entire world! The beauty and symmetry of the Tuileries Gardens are unrivaled throughout town – everything just seems to be so perfectly aligned.
At the Louvre end is the Arc de Triomphe du Carrousel, built to commemorate Napoleon’s victories. It was built 30 years before its big sister that’s visible as you walk through it towards Place de la Concorde.
The center of the Tuileries Gardens is the most pleasant section. Grab one of the metal chairs that are randomly scattered throughout the garden and catch some sun next to the central pond. Around you are Classical sculptures, some by famous artists like Rodin, and the finely cut lawns certainly add an element of royalty to this park that once housed a palace.
As you head towards Place de la Concorde, on both sides are dozens of chestnut trees that are just a haven on a hot and muggy Parisian summer day. There are a couple of reasonably priced cafes and two prime museums at its western edge: the Musée de l’Orangerie and the Jeu de Paume. The former is home to impressionist and post-impressionist masterpieces by the likes of Monet, Cezanne, Renoir, and Picasso, while the latter is a center for modern and postmodern photography & media.
Palais Royal
You can rarely enter the former palace that now houses various government buildings, but the highlight is the garden that occupies the courtyard. It’s another one of those romantic spots in Paris and a great place to take a quiet break, away from the madness of the city. Lining the gardens are lots of antique shops and if you’re a fan of old coins and stamps – you’ll have a blast.
Louvre Museum
Not much needs to be written about the world’s largest museum. A visit to the Louvre is a must and at the same time, a bit overwhelming. I must admit that I only made it inside when moving to Paris for three months but I’m sure glad I finally made it. There are two rules of thumb you should follow when visiting the Louvre: don’t try to see everything and buy your tickets in advance. If you decide that giant museums aren’t your thing, that’s perfectly understandable. Just be sure to admire the beauty of the Louvre from the outside, with its glass pyramid and sculpted ornaments- this place used to be a palace after all!
The Louvre is made up of three wings, each with its specialty. You will be in a constant state of positive shock when walking its halls. I especially liked the Classical paintings, the Napoleon III apartments, and ancient Roman art – but I pretty much liked everything, to be honest.
Pont des Arts
Connecting the Louvre with Saint-Germain-des-Prés, the Pont des Arts is also known as the love bridge. That’s because, for years, couples used to seal their eternal love with love locks on the bridge and toss the key down to the murky waters of the Seine. Unfortunately for us (and fortunately for the bridge), the city has removed the locks from the bridge during June of 2015. The 45 tonnes of love locks have taken their toll on the bridge, which was at risk of collapsing under the weight of eternal love. Crossing the bridge is a great way to enter the must-see neighborhood of Saint-Germain-des-Prés.
Paris Passages
Scattered across the vast Grand Boulevards are a few last remaining passages – covered shopping streets that have mostly been bulldozed down during the historical development of this part of town. Visiting the Paris passages is like taking a trip back in time, with the kind of shops that are a rarity these days. You can pretty much cover a distance of a few kilometers just by hopping from one passage to another. My favorites are Passage des Panoramas and Galerie Vivienne but there are lots more, with a few highlights along the way such as the Paris Bourse.
Exploring the Paris passages is a great itinerary for a rainy day in Paris, which is exactly the occasion that led me to explore these hidden passageways!
Have a look at this Paris rainy day itinerary which includes full coverage of exploring the Paris passages.
Palais Garnier
It is the most beautiful building in all of Paris, a real masterpiece with the highest level of attention to detail – in a city that already excels at this. The palace is also known as the Opera Garnier, and that’s because it’s the grand opera of Paris. On the other end of town in the Bastille area, is the younger sister but it’s the Palais Garnier that you want to visit. Seeing the Opera Garnier from either the inside or exterior is one of the top things to do in Paris!
The Palais Garnier was built between 1865-1872 and was designed to impress from both outside and inside. The result is a stunning masterpiece, inspired by Classic Italian architecture but finished off in classic French form. From the outside, a multi-colored marble facade is topped by golden statues and the names of eternal opera legends. Inside, the famous Grand Staircase leads to the auditorium, whose ceiling is decorated with a Chagall fresco. The Palais Garnier is also where the legend of the Phantom of the Opera began and if you can’t make it inside for a concert, at least take the time to visit (€15 including the highly recommended self-guided audio tour).
Interested in visiting the most beautiful Parisian architectural masterpieces? Here’s an in-depth guide to the Palais Garnier.
The Terrace of Printemps
I’m including this highlight in the ‘places to see section’ but the Printemps is one of the grand Parisian department stores (tourists get 12% off). A gorgeous-looking Art Nouveau giant shop, the highlight for me is making your way to the Déli-Cieux cafe and its rooftop terrace. The 360-degree view of Paris is out of this world, especially since you’re smack in the middle of town – and the best part is that it’s completely free! Though you won’t be alone, it’s never packed up here and it’s best visited on a clear day or for early evening drinks!
Association Notre-Dame de Lorette
A cute-looking church in one of the busiest spots in town, its stairs are a favorite lunch spot for nearby office workers on a sunny day. The church was completed in 1836 and was even the church of choice for Claude Monet’s baptism. I came here once during my lunch break and was impressed by its exquisitely decorated ceiling. If you’re around, it’s worth peeking inside.
Eglise de la Trinité
Proudly towering at the edge of Rue de la Chaussée d’Antin, the Eglise de la Trinité is another one of those pretty churches that are overshadowed by the popular cathedrals of Paris like the Sainte Chapelle and Notre Dame. It’s by no means in the same class, but like Saint Augustin, you just might have it all to yourself.
Place Saint Georges
I loved exploring the Saint Georges area, between Pigalle and Saint Lazare. There are no must-see highlights here but if you enjoy walking, it can be a nice way to go to or back from the romantic hilltop neighborhood of Montmartre. There are lots of small cafes hidden in tiny plazas, coupled with musical instruments shops galore if you’re into that. A nice place to grab lunch is at Place Saint Georges, with its relaxing fountain.
Rue des Martyrs
Another great way to head up or down from Montmartre, Rue des Martyrs is a classic locals’ street. You’ll find here lots of overpriced (but nicely decorated) fruit & vegetable stalls, award-winning bakeries, gourmet shops, cafes, and amazing patisseries (see next sections). It’s the kind of street that gets busy during weekend mornings and weekday lunchtimes – and those are also the best times to pass by.
Places to Eat & Drink
Le Nemours
The best part about this restaurant is the location of its outdoor terrasse – right as you exit the gardens of the Palais Royale. I can’t think of a better spot to take a break and grab a coffee or lunch – especially since you’re likely to be treated to a classical music concert in the adjacent square, a popular spot for street performers. Have a look!
Le Garde Robe
One of the coolest wine bars in Paris. There’s not much space inside and even less outside, but that’s part of what makes this place special!
Le Gramont
Centrally located on Boulevards des Italiens, the outdoor terrace is a great place to grab a Monaco (beer with grenadine) or anything else that your palate fancies. It’s walking distance from the Opera Garnier and buzzing on pleasant evenings.
Le Bouillon Chartier
Isabelle and I came here for lunch while exploring the Paris passages on a rainy day. This used to be a working man’s brasserie, in business since 1896 and always serving decent meals at reasonable prices. These days, it’s a popular restaurant with the tourist crowd but if you come here between peak hours, you’ll avoid the huge queues that form outside.
The food is not gourmet but just simply good. What makes Le Bouillon Chartier special is the vibe: prepare to be seated with others to fill a table and though waiters give off a classic look with their white aprons, they’re always in a hurry. Even your bill is written on the paper table cloth. Come here for the atmosphere, get here before the crowds, and do not expect a quiet romantic dinner – just a fun experience.
Caillebotte
When this bistro opened up, it was impossible to get a table. Now, you’ll ‘just’ have to be lucky to find one. Named after French painter Gustave Caillebotte, the food here is from, of course, the French kitchen but with a modern twist. We especially enjoyed the duck breast and the yummy dessert, though this type of food may not be for everyone. The best deals are the lunch menus, otherwise, prepare to spend €30pp.
Buvette
Kind of a cross between a tapas bar and a French restaurant, the atmosphere inside Buvette is great – maybe it’s because they also make great cocktails. Don’t forget the chocolate souffle at the end – one of the best!
Le Bouclier de Bacchus
One of my favorites in the area and right around the corner from my former office. You’ll be sitting among cases of wine and that’s pretty much the reason for coming. The food is pretty good and reasonably priced but the selection of wines is the highlight, all reasonably priced and at wholesale prices (around €20-30 for really good bottles of wine).
Pastry & Chocolate Shops
Angelina
I put this place down under the sweets department but Angelina is a Parisian institution for brunch. Located right outside the Tuileries Gardens, you can also just come here and grab a luscious pastry. Angelina is super famous for their hot chocolate and a wide choice of homemade pastries that can only be found here. If you do end up sitting down at a table, you’ll be treated to a classic Parisian setting, complete with gilded ceilings and beautiful murals (it ain’t cheap though folks).
À la mère de Famille
Another Parisian institution, À la Mère de Famille has been making chocolates for a long time. This shop is one of the oldest spots in Paris for sweets. The chocolate boxes are more like jewelry boxes (and priced accordingly) but don’t be shy to take home a small sample.
Pierre Hermé
With quite a few locations around town, Pierre Hermé has carved out a name for himself as one of the premier pastry chefs in France. Perhaps this is the reason he’s known as the ‘Picasso of Pastries’. Famous for his macarons and rivalry with Laduree, the flavors here have undergone a long thought process and been scientifically blended to create unique seasonal flavors. Try the rosé, passionfruit, grapefruit, and my favorite – pistachio. Who am I kidding, try everything!
Sébastien Gaudard
One of the best pastry shops in Paris and it just happens to also be on one of my favorite little streets, Rue des Martyrs. Sébastien Gaudard’s work isn’t cheap at roughly €5 minimum for a custardy pastry – but you won’t be able to resist. The pastries look so good that you’ll feel sorry for taking a bite… but you will anyway.
Popelini
Also on Rue des Martyrs, Popelini makes excellent parfumes, small pastries filled with lots of good stuff! Have a ‘main dish’ at Sébastien Gaudard and then head up the street to Popelini for ‘dessert’!
Places to Shop
Galeries Lafayette
The grandest of all Parisian department stores, you’ll find here everything that you could possibly (not) need. Even if you’re not into shopping, you must head inside and have a look at the interior dome! It can get super packed here, especially with Chinese visitors that are hauled here by the busloads – but the interior beauty is certainly worth the hassle. Food lovers will also want to check out Lafayette Gourmet, the mega fine food shop just next to the original department store. If you want to stock up on some foie gras, wine, tapenade, or any other French delicacy – this could be a good option.
Rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré
See the previous ‘western section’
Place Vendôme & Around
This Louis XIV square is one of the most glamorous in all of Paris. Too bad it’s undergoing massive renovations at the moment. Nonetheless, it’s worth stopping by to see the mega-wealthy locals and tourists stepping in and out of the fine boutiques & jewelry shops like Chanel, Dior, Bvlgari, Cartier, and their friends. The streets around the plaza are home to some of the most expensive shops in town, much posher than what you’ll find over at the Champs Elysees. How about those €200 pajamas for you darling?
Rue de Rivoli
To the east of the Louvre, Rue de Rivoli is a prime shopping street. You’ll find here all the top brands and another classic Parisian department store, BHV, just after the Hotel de Ville.
The Marché biologique des Batignolles
Every Saturday morning, the former working-class village known as Batignolles plays host to a popular food market that specializes in bio foods. Keep in mind that ‘bio’ usually means ‘extra’ when it comes to the price and it’s no different here. From the few spot checks we made, prices were quite high. But the produce looks so damn good, so who cares?! If you love Parisian food markets (and who doesn’t), you’ll love strolling through the bio market and if Saturday doesn’t work for you, the same market moves across town to Saint Germain on Sundays.
Continue to the ‘east section’ to plan the rest of your Grand Boulevards itinerary!
