The Island Of Maupiti, You Are Just So Damn Pretty!

Up close and personal with manta rays

The following day was a Sunday. It was back into the water but this time with some scuba gear. There’s one more reason to come to Maupiti and that reason lies beneath the waves. Throughout the day, manta rays visit a specific spot inside the lagoon known as the ‘cleaning station’. I headed with Yannick and Nelly from Maupiti Diving to have a closer look at this spectacle. At 10 meters deep, divers pretty much park it in front of the cleaning station, which is really just a small complex of large coral boulders. After a few minutes of waiting, the show begins. Manta rays appear to arrive in pairs, hovering over the coral and making a few rounds, as small fish rid them of algae, parasites and debris.

The manta rays then open up their giant mouths, and the fish make a quick trip inside the belly for a few last bites. Before you know it, the manta rays are ready to leave the pit stop and continue cruising the lagoon. Think of it as nature’s ‘car wash’.

I’ve never seen manta rays before, and though visibility was not good on this day, it was still amazing to witness these creatures. Females can grow up to five meters, while the males settle for an average of three. After over an hour on the sandy floor, it’s time to surface and head back to shore.

As Sunday was drawing to a close, I headed for a walk to soak some local vibes. After a few days in Maupiti, you start to recognize people and they always say hello. Locals were cruising the only road on scooters, as others on bicycles were hanging on. Men were playing petanque and younger folks were tossing a volleyball over the net. Life in Maupiti seems to be good. Stress-free – the way it should be.

Saving the best for last in Maupiti

On my last day on the island, I was picked up by Sammy Maupiti Tours for a lagoon tour. Sammy was off that day, so his father Gabi was the guide. I hopped on the boat along with a lovely French couple living in New Caledonia for a full day of fun in the sun.

Our first stop was back at the manta ray cleaning station, which was good news because visibility was much better than yesterday’s dive. Gabi was our spotter while we were in the water, and this guy can spot a manta ray from a mile away.

We would always look for hand signals from him and swim as fast as we could to watch the manta rays. The clearer water was a blessing. You could simply hover on the surface and watch them come and go. When a really big one came along, you could just dive and swim right next to it, with its flaps almost touching you. These creatures are like giant birds or some kind of alien spaceship – so unique.

We really didn’t want to say goodbye to the manta rays, but Gabi promised to make it worth our while. We cruised slowly and moored the boat next to a bunch of rocks sticking out of the water, and Gabi instructed us to get our snorkeling gear on and hop in. We followed him along the shallow water and after a few minutes, entered the ‘coral garden’.

Maupiti’s coral garden is one of the prettiest sites you’ll ever see. Endless fields of coral in all shapes, sizes and colors grow in all directions. In between them, thousands of fish gather to enjoy the abundant food and relative safety that the garden offers these otherwise defenseless creatures. I thought the snorkeling off Motu Auira was good, but the coral garden is on another level, right up there with the pristine reef at Ofu Island.

Here’s what it felt like to swim with the manta rays and inside the coral garden.

After all that snorkeling, Gabi drove the boat toward a tiny motu for lunch. The views of Maupiti, the lagoon and the neighboring motus, made me want to call Air Tahiti and postpone my flight.  

Let’s make some food

As Gabi was slicing up the fresh red tuna, curious stingrays were coming to check out what may be at stake for them later on. While the tuna steaks were tossed on the grill, we began to make together the poisson cru – that Tahitian dish of raw fish in coconut milk.

To make the dish, you obviously need some fish. Gabi took care of that, slicing it up and soaking it in a bowl of seawater for extra flavor. Now for the coconut milk. That’s the tough one. This part of lunch was prepared by the guests, and it ain’t easy peeling, cracking and scraping coconuts – believe me.

Lunch was finally served BBQ style and it was delicious with a capital ‘D’. Food was plentiful and there was enough to reward those stingrays that stuck around. Their skin feels like jelly and they just suck the food out of your hand.

After lunch, Gabi took us around the island, stopping by at a beautiful beach. What a great way to end a week in Maupiti!

What’s Next?

We saw Bora Bora in the distance, and it’s now time for the real thing. Next week, we’ll pay a visit to the island that’s on everyone’s wish list. See you soon, this time in just a few days.

Heading off to French Polynesia? In-depth island guides to all 5 archipelagos await you, including sample itineraries and essential travel tips & tricks.