10 Days In Samoa

Day 8: Savaii South Coast

Morning

It’s time to catch the morning ferry or domestic flight and explore Samoa’s big island. Savaii is much bigger than Upolu but only a quarter of the population lives here. Savaii is said to be ‘the real Samoa’, where fa’a Samoa is the way of life and where the island’s volcanoes still prove once a century who’s the real boss around here. Salelologa is where you’ll embark and it’s also the island’s only town. Stock up on some fruits and vegetables at the market, and pick up a car for the next 2-3 days from the Jet Over Hotel (starting at T105 per day). It’s still before noon and there’s enough time to explore Savaii’s south coast.  

Sleepy Village Savaii Samoa - man carrying coconuts

The first stop is at Afu Aau Falls (T5 entrance) for a refreshing dip. If you come here on a weekday, you’ll likely be the only ones here. From the falls, continue driving on the south coast road, passing villages where absolutely nothing seems to happen and stopping on the basaltic cliffs to enjoy the rugged views.

Afu Aau Waterfall Savaii Samoa

Rugged beach Savaii Samoa

Stop at the Alofaaga Blowholes (T5 entrance), and watch how the ocean swell pushes water sky-high through underwater lava tubes. If that’s not enough action for you, one of the locals will show you what happens when a coconut is tossed inside (and they’ll collect T20 from you so let them know in advance if you’d prefer to skip this).

Alofaaga Blowholes Savaii Samoa

Afternoon

A lengthy but enjoyable drive through Savaii’s rural coastline will lead you to Lovers Leap for a quick stop. Legend tells of a mother and daughter who jumped off this cliff, turning into a sea turtle and shark upon impact. This probably explains why lucky spectators might spot the two marine creatures cruising inside the deep cove (T2 entrance).

You’ll finish off your day of exploring the south coast of Savaii at Cape Mulinuu (T10 entrance). This is the westernmost point in Samoa and an area of great spiritual belief, especially during pre-Christian times. It was believed that as the sun set, it carried with it the soul of Samoans to the afterlife. I must say that it might be the remoteness of the place or its spiritual past that gives the cape an eerie feel to it. You’ll just have to feel it for yourself.

Falealupo Peninsula wild parm trees Savaii Samoa

The locals collecting the fee will be happy to take you on a short hike to the Blood Well, Vaatausili Cave, and star mound – where more bizarre rituals took place back in the day. The cape is also a prime spot for sunsets and its tidal pool is a solid option for one last dip before heading back.

Falealupo Peninsula Savaii Samoa Blood Well

Evening

Drive back to Salelologa and check into the Savaiian Hotel. Offering excellent value for money no matter which accommodation type you choose, the hotel serves excellent buffet breakfasts and awesome dinners. The Savaiian hotel is among my list of recommended accommodations in Savaii.

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Pro Tip

Here’s a list of all Savaii accommodations that can ben booked online via booking.com.

Day 9: Savaii East & North Coasts

Morning

This will be a very busy and rewarding day so get an early start. Once you get out of ‘metro Salelologa’, the beachfront homes will give way to long patches of white sand with the occasional rustic fale hosting a napping villager.

Savaii North coast beach Samoa

The east coast road will at some point veer inland and cut through a moonlike surface. This is the Saleaula Lava Field, a vast expanse of leftover lava from the eruptions of nearby Mount Matavanu between 1905-1911. Though vegetation is now growing, this mostly barren land is a reminder that the island’s volcano is still active (though silent since 1911).

Saleaula Lava Fields Savaii Samoa

Stop at the visitor center (T5 entrance) and walk down the path to explore all that remains of a village run over by 9-meter thick lava. The remains of the LMS Church offer a chilling glimpse of what took place here, as entire villages and fertile agricultural land were scorched.

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Lava Field Savaii Samoa - LMS Church inside

Back on the road, stop at the turtle sanctuary if you feel like swimming with sea turtles in a pool, or continue past the village of Manase with its pristine beach (we’ll come back here). At the village of Paia, take the dirt road up to the Mount Matavanu Crater. This challenging road is doable even with a high 2WD, eventually leading you to the hut manned by Da Craterman. This living legend is the unofficial caretaker of the crater and he’ll let you through to the road leading up to a panoramic lookout point and the path which leads to the crater’s rim (T20 entrance).

Mount Matavanu Savaii - the craterman

Mount Matavanu Savaii craterman sign

Mount Matavanu Savaii craterman sign

The views from up here are sensational, devoid of any man-made noise. Park the car and hike to the crater’s rim, now overgrown with thick vegetation. It’s yet another peaceful spot with nothing but birds singing all around you, even though it is from here that all the destructive lava flowed down to the coast.

Afternoon

Back on the main road, you’ll pass the Mataolealelo Spring before quickly stopping at the Peapea Cave to watch the Polynesian Swiftlet nesting in the pitch dark (T5 entrance). This part of Savaii is riddled with underground lava tubes, and this cave is one of the few that doesn’t require hours of exploration (like the Dwarfs Cave).

Mata o le Alelo Pool Savaii Samoa

Peapea Cave Savaii Samoa

From here, there’s nothing but empty villages and rolling hills until you reach the end of the line at the Falealupo Peninsula. The T20 ticket you pay at the Canopy Walkway is good for all the Falealupo Village sites. Start with the canopy tour, then Moso’s Footprint, the remains of the cyclone beaten catholic church, and finally the House of Rock.

Falealupo Village Savaii Samoa canopy walk

Falealupo Village Savaii Samoa catholic church destroyed in cyclone

Like Cape Mulinuu, this part of Savaii is a little strange, in an interesting way. Not only does this area have important spiritual significance, but its villagers are very simple people, often not even speaking English. For some, Apia is as far away as Manhattan.

Rainbow in Savaii Samoa roadtrip

Evening

This wraps up the road trip in Savaii but instead of driving to Salelologa, spend the final two nights in Manase and enjoy some beach time. The Savaii Lagoon Resort and Le Lagoto Resort & Spa are excellent choices for those seeking comfort, and the beach fales of Manase are perfect for those seeking simplicity right on the beach.

Day 10: Relaxing In Manase Or Scuba Diving

This is the last of your 10 days in Samoa, so why not relax on the beach? Manase Beach is the prettiest in Savaii, often frequented by sea turtles during the morning and early evening.

Manase tropical beach Savaii Island Samoa

For those who wish to do a bit of scuba diving in Samoa, book a spot with Dive Savaii and explore the nearby reef. You’ll cruise along underwater volcanic landscapes, encounter sea turtles from up close, see the wreck of a missionary boat and maybe even bump into a lionfish or stingray!

Diving Savaii Samoa sea turtle 2

Ready To Visit?

This 10 days in Samoa sample itinerary will give you a very good taste of this tropical destination. If you’re visiting Samoa, start planning your holiday with the Samoa travel guide collection, filled with essential planning tips and in-depth information about Samoa.

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