2 Weeks in Reunion Island Itinerary
Part 2: Four Days in Cirque de Cilaos, Piton des Neiges & St-Pierre
The second part of our two weeks in Reunion Island itinerary is spent in the most popular of the island’s three cirques. For now, we bid farewell to the coast and embark on several scenic drives. Our visit climaxes with the “mother of all hikes” on the island, the hike to the summit of the Piton des Neiges.
About the Cirque de Cilaos
Cirque de Cilaos is the largest and driest of Reunion’s three volcanic amphitheaters (cirques). Created by the collapse of a magma chamber that fueled the rise of Piton des Neiges (the island’s highest peak at 3,069m), the area has gone through extensive erosion, essentially creating a giant bowl. The cirque provides breathtaking scenery of bare ridges topped by peaks and ramparts more than 1000 meters high. At the heart of the cirque is the town of Cilaos, a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
The cirque was first settled by maroons (escaped slaves), who created their own inner kingdom. They were constantly raided by slave hunters from the coast, but after slavery was abolished, they were joined by poor whites who greatly deforested the land for agriculture and timber. The Cirque is accessed via one of the world’s most scenic (and challenging) roads, and there is also remote foot access to the neighboring Cirque de Mafate. Besides tourism, the cirque is a major producer of lentils, grapes, corn, and even wine.
Regardless of whether you’ll climb the area’s peaks, the evening weather inside the cirque is quite chilly. Be sure to pack accordingly!
Where to Stay in Cirque de Cilaos
The most obvious place to base yourself is in Cilaos, which has all the amenities a traveler needs, so you won’t have to drive too far for a meal, stock up on groceries, or get advice at the tourist office.
We stayed at Residence Eglantine, a solid self-catering catering option in the heart of the small town. Mireille, the owner, was very friendly and accommodating, and she even spoke a bit of English, a rarity around here. Units have a small but fully functional kitchen, good WiFi reception, a small terrace, and gated parking. We appreciated both the view from our bedroom and the option to leave our car parked here with our luggage safely stored while hiking the Piton des Neiges. The only major drawbacks were that no leftover supply was left in the kitchen (we had to buy everything), and the bathroom was super small. As with many Reunion Island accommodations, you must come equipped with your own toiletries.
Other good options in Cilaos include the upscale Hotel des Neiges and Hotel le Cilaos, the historic Tsilaosa Hotel, and the Creole villa of La Belle Creole. If you really want to go off the grid, head to Ilet a Cordes, one of the most scenic villages you’ll ever visit. Stay in the pampering Tapacala Insolite or the simpler Ker l’Ilet and Gite de L’ilet.
Day 5: Dolphin & Whale Watching and Scenic Drive to Cilaos
We’ll get an early start to the day and try to see some humpback whales before bidding farewell to the coast and heading inland on one of the most scenic drives in the world.
Dolphin and Whale Watching Tour from Saint-Gilles
While dolphins are always present off the coast, whales visit Reunion Island’s shores between June and October. The best place to spot them is off the West Coast. Choose from pure dolphin and whale watching tours or join tours where you can enter the water and swim with whales if conditions allow.
Our alternative tour left from Saint-Gilles at 9 am and returned just after 11 am. Unfortunately, despite visiting several sites, we did not spot any whales, even as far south as St-Leu. The onboard explanations were also provided only in French, but we did see many dolphins and caught beautiful views of the coastline and its surrounding mountains.
Apart from a small shop selling fresh fish and many restaurants in the marina, Saint-Gilles doesn’t have much charm, and I’m glad we didn’t spend any precious time here. I can see why the town appeals to families, though, as there are many dining options, an aquarium, and excursions galore.
Scenic Drive to Cilaos
From Saint-Gilles, it’s about a 90-minute drive to Cilaos, but it will take you much longer because this is the best scenic drive in Reunion Island and the most slow-going. The RN-5 heads into the cirque from Saint-Louis for 35 km of pure thrills and extreme scenery.
It will take a lot of courage and patience to negotiate one-lane bridges and tunnels, blind sections, and 400 turns, some of which are almost full circle and uphill. This engineering marvel was built in 1932 without the use of any explosives. It’s best to embrace the drive and to pause wherever you can to stretch your legs and enjoy the scenery.
En route to Cilaos, you pass through a handful of roadside villages where time seems to standstill. They seem entirely hidden from the outside world by towering emerald peaks that close in from both sides, very reminiscent of the interior of Tahiti in French Polynesia.
Driving on this scenic road at different times of the day (in and out of the cirque) offers an entirely different experience, as the sun’s rays paint the deep gorge in different shades. Out here, feeling completely walled in, it’s hard to imagine that the Indian Ocean is just a few kilometers down the road. As you inch closer to Cilaos, especially beyond the one-laned tunnel, the cirque’s hamlets come into view as if clinging for dear life on the only flat ground on the high ridges.
Exploring Cilaos
Cilaos is the cirque’s capital and a UNESCO World Heritage Site, a town that appears to be completely cut off from the exterior world and where the feeling is more alpine than tropical. From the center, one can easily spot the Piton des Neiges and its “shorter” sibling, the Grand Benare. Cilaos used to be a major resort town, beginning in the late 19th century, thanks to its thermal springs that are still in operation (advanced booking needed).
Despite its isolation and the “exercise” required to get to and from the coast, Cilaos is fully stocked, and people seem to be living in comfort if, however, looking a bit bored, especially the younger demographics. After all, it is a 90-minute drive to the closest beach… I suppose it’s one of the benefits of being a French colony: the basics will always be taken care of.
The feeling for a tourist in Cilaos is like being in a ski town as many businesses are geared towards the active visitor, except, of course, you need to supplement the snow for the hiking. You base yourself in Cilaos for the hikes. It’s a hiker’s Mecca, with over 80 kilometers of marked trails around the town. Bumping into tourists with hiking poles and backpacks is inevitable around here.
Exploring Cilaos’ Center
There aren’t any must-see attractions per se in Cilaos, but it is nice to wander around on foot. Notable mentions include the town’s main cathedral (Notre Dame des Neiges), perfectly positioned with the island’s highest peak as its backdrop, the small vegetable market, and the charming pastel-colored Creole houses with their manicured gardens loaded with scented flowers that can be smelled from a distance. The town has a large supermarket and a bakery so you can buy whatever you need for the coming days. I recommend visiting the tourist office and getting information about the area’s activities, including hiking options and the bus schedule.
Dinner at Chez Noe
We wanted to take a break from the Creole buffet, so we headed to Chez Noe for dinner. The interior decoration gives the place a very cozy vibe but the food was just OK. Seeing as we’re in the lentil capital of the island, we tried the local specialty and washed it down with some local Cilaos wine, which is quite sweet. Wine was introduced by the French settlers to Reunion and made its way into Cirque de Cilaos, where growing conditions were relatively favorable. It isn’t the best wine in the world, but trying the local produce is always recommended.
Before turning in, there was time to enjoy the clear night sky and glimpse our Milky Way.
Day 6: Ilet a Cordes and Hiking Around Cilaos
Nearly at the halfway mark of our two weeks in Reunion Island, we’ll spend this day road-tripping to the nearby hamlet of Ilet a Cordes to really get away from it all and later explore the cirque on foot.
Get an early start to the day to enjoy a cloud-free morning in both Ilet a Cordes and on the hike. You can take it a bit more slowly and leave Ilet a Cordes for tomorrow morning, before starting the afternoon ascent to the overnight cabin on the Piton des Neiges hike.
La Roche Merveilleuse Scenic Lookout
The “marvelous rock” is indeed a breathtaking scenic lookout that is not to be missed. It’s less than 10 minutes by car from the center of town. From this scenic spot, you can see just how enclosed Cilaos is by the surrounding peaks.
Ilet a Cordes
Perched on a remote ridge, the hamlet of Ilet a Cordes was so inaccessible back in the day that runaway slaves needed to use ropes to climb to it (hence its name, “hamlet of ropes”). The isolated settlement is now linked to Cilaos via one of the finest scenic roads on the island, which leaves you breathless for 11 kilometers. It is so inaccessible that it had to be cut into the cliff. This short detour from Cilaos is incredible and not to be missed, especially on a sunny morning.
The Drive from Cilaos
The drive from Cilaos to Ilet a Cordes begins with a mesmerizing series of sharp python-like downhill twists. If that wasn’t enough, you might need to share the road with an oncoming bus. The effort then eases with a smooth drive along the side of the cliff with changing views of the cirque, its hamlets and ravines, and plenty of opportunities to stop and absorb the scenery.
A life of Agriculture
As you enter Ilet a Cordes, the feeling of traveling back in time is the first thing that comes to mind. There’s hardly anyone around, apart from a few farmers tending their lentil fields without using any machinery. It’s so quiet out here, and the acoustics are so great that you can hear the birds singing from every conceivable angle. Leave your car and explore on foot, or keep driving wherever the road takes you.
It’s clear that locals in Ilet a Cordes mainly live off agriculture. Everywhere you look are fields and orchards; lentil isn’t the only crop around. Patches of cabbage, onion, lettuce, orange trees, bananas, and vines all occupy the fields, while bougainvilleas and loquat trees color gardens. It’s so peaceful out here that you feel like staying for three days with a good book and a good view. From the edge of the village, the blue of the Indian Ocean can be seen, the equivalent of light-years away, considering the Swiss countryside vibe of the village.
Before Driving Back
We paused for a breather at the village’s grocery shop, doubling as a cafe. It’s right at the base of the rampart that rises to the Fenetre des Makes lookout we visited on day 4. From down here, you can clearly see the marks left by cascades that only appear in heavy rains like tears from the heavens and the peaks of Grand Benare (2896m) and Piton des Neiges (3070m), the latter of which will be tackled tomorrow.
Day Hikes in Cirque de Cilaos
We’ll start climbing to the summit of the Piton des Neiges tomorrow, but today, we still have some time for hiking in the area. I’ll list a few recommended hikes, but if you don’t feel like hiking, perhaps the few hours in Ilet a Cordes and a spa treatment at Les Thermes de Cilaos will be enough (advanced booking essential). Depending on the length of the hike, you might need to leave the scenic drive to Ilet a Cordes for tomorrow morning.
Get some hiking information upon arrival at the local tourism office in town.
Bras-Rouge Waterfall Hike
You can start this trail either next to the church in Cilaos (longer and harder) or from a signposted area in the D242 road (shorter and easier). The trail leads to the old thermal baths and eventually offers sweeping views of the ravine and the top of a waterfall. Total distance: up to 11kms | difficulty: easy/moderate | time: 2.5 to 4.5 hrs (return) | more information.
La Chapelle Hike
This hike is great on a hot and sunny day as the trail leads to a canyon filled with water and to a famous spot beneath two boulders that collapsed on each other, creating “the chapel”. The trailhead is located at the edge of town. Total distance: 8kms | difficulty: moderate | time: ~5 hrs (return) | more information.
Col du Taibit & Cilaos to Marla Hike
This challenging hike takes you on the trail connecting Cirque de Cilaos with Cirque de Mafate via the Taibit Pass. The hike begins with a climb to the pass, and you can either enjoy the view from the top and return or continue further to Marla, considered one of the most beautiful hamlets in Reunion Island (Marla can also be accessed on a hike from Cirque de Salazie – see last day’s itinerary). Total distance: 11.5kms | difficulty: challenging | time: ~6 hrs (return) | more information.
Cap Bouteille Hike
It is another challenging hike that mixes a wide variety of scenery into one trail. Follow the path to Col du Taibit and then veer to the turnoff to Cap Bouteille. Total distance: 8kms | difficulty: challenging | time: ~5 hrs (return) | more information.
Dinner at Chez Lucay
For our second dinner in Cilaos, we listened to our host’s recommendation and dined at Chez Lucay. It has a good selection of Creole and international selections. We went for duck breast and ribeye steak for mains and tried the local Cilaos red wine this time, which was much better than the white.
