10 Days In the Tuamotu Atolls of French Polynesia
Part III: 4 Days in Fakarava
Fakarava is the second-largest atoll in the archipelago and home to the largest lagoon pass in French Polynesia – the Garuae Pass (~2km wide). The atoll is home to incredibly rich marine life, protected as part of Fakarava’s status as a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve. If you love scuba diving but also looking for something beyond, Fakarava is a perfect choice. Fakarava is an up-and-coming destination, having gained some fame in recent years especially among scuba divers. Nevertheless, it still retains an authentic charm, and life rarely “shifts beyond third gear” on the island.
Where to Stay in Fakarava?
That depends on whether you wish to scuba dive in the remote South Pass (Tetamanu) or content with staying near the North Pass (Garuae). The South Pass is extremely remote but there are a few pensions that cater to scuba divers. In Tetamanu Village, Pension Tetamanu and Pension Raimiti are your options. Slightly further out, Pension Motu Aito is the last option around here. In the North Pass, most accommodations center around the main village of Rotoava. You’ll find great pension stays at Havaiki Lodge, Tokerau Village, Veke Veke, and Papara. For simpler stays, check out Kori Kori and Relais Marama.
Day 7: Arrival, Snorkeling or Cycle to PK9 Beach
As with arrival days to Tikehau and Rangiroa, what you can accomplish on this day in Fakarava depends on when your flight lands. If you’ve opted to stay in the South Pass, your hosts will get you there by boat from the airport.
Assuming you’re staying near Rotoava Village if there isn’t much time left in the day, snorkel in one of the many coral gardens that can be found on the lagoon-side of the main motu. Ask your hosts for the best spots or simply cycle in the direction of the airport and find a spot to your left. There isn’t much happening in Rotoava apart from a cute church, a few snacks, and a fruit stand. If there is enough time, cycle to PK9 Beach. It’s located just nine kilometers from Rotoava and it’s one of the best beaches in French Polynesia.
Day 8: Scuba Dive
The diving in Fakarava is out of this world! The South Pass is considered one of the best dive sites in the world, where you’re guaranteed to swim with hundreds of sharks. However, the North Pass is also extremely rewarding, thanks to pristine coral and a high probability of seeing the famous “shark walls” that make the South Pass so famous, albeit on a smaller scale up in the north. Depending on the currents, you’ll be doing challenging but enjoyable drift dives but there will never be a dull moment thanks to the abundant coral. Here’s a video summary of my dives in Fakarava.
Day 9: Scuba Dive
The two or three dives you managed to do yesterday will surely leave you with a taste for more. Use this day for additional diving.
Day 10: Lagoon Tour to Pink Sand Beaches
Even if you’re not staying in the South Pass, you can still pay a visit. Book a lagoon tour to the South Pass for your last day in Fakarava, the final day on this 10 days in the Tuamotus itinerary. It takes over an hour to reach Tetamanu Pass by speed boat from Rotoava. Once you reach Tetamanu Village, your guides will fire up the BBQ and you’ll have time to snorkel.
After lunch, the guides will take you on a walking tour of the abandoned village. Tetamanu used to be the capital of Fakarava but due to its remoteness and surrounding sea conditions, Rotoava took over. You’ll then head to the famous pink sand beaches of Fakarava, just on the opposite side of the Tetamanu Pass, before starting the return journey back north.
You can usually “squeeze” one dive in the South Pass even if joining a lagoon tour. Your guides can arrange this and instead of snorkeling, you’ll go for a dive and return in time for lunch.
What’s Next?
This 10 days in the Tuamotus offers a quick way to fully utilize your Air Tahiti air pass and see the most visited atolls in the archipelago. Check out the following guides for more information about the Tuamotu atolls and French Polynesia.
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