Grands Boulevards Itinerary: Where to Go, Eat & Shop
Paris Grands Boulevards Itinerary: Western Section
The western part of the Grands Boulevards takes up the 8th arrondissement (district) and it’s known as one of the most expensive neighborhoods in Paris. The southern end contains many of Paris’s most famous landmarks while its northern end is primarily residential and is little explored by visitors. To the west, is the Champs Elysees area with its luxurious ‘Golden Triangle’ district.
Places to See
:: Go Straight to Western Section Shopping
Parc Monceau
One of the hidden gems of the 8th arrondissement, Parc Monceau is a favorite hangout spot for neighborhood locals. Beautiful gilded gates welcome you to this park that was built way back in 1779 by the Duke of Chartres. During the morning hours, joggers take over the park later giving way to families and schoolchildren. It’s the perfect spot to pass a few hours en route to the nearby Arc de Triomphe and there’s always something happening here on a sunny weekend.
Musée Jacquemart-André
It might be overwhelming to choose which Paris museum to visit as there are just so many. The obvious no-brainers are the Louvre and Musée d’Orsay but there are a few hidden gems and the Musée Jacquemart-André is one of them. Tucked away in a former mansion, the museum was once the home of wealthy Parisian couple Édouard André & Nélie Jacquemart. The couple had no children but they did have a passion for the arts and lots of money to invest in this hobby. The result for the couple was a living museum, filled with impressive tapestries, grand halls, exquisite paintings, and a very lavish living arrangement. For a totally worth it €12, you can wander around the mansion and work up an appetite for the wonderful cafe that now resides in the couple’s former dining hall (the pastries are out of this world!).
Saint-Augustin Cathedral
Located smack in the middle of a busy intersection, the Saint Augustin church is pretty new by local standards. Completed in 1868, the church was designed to catch the eyes of onlookers from the Arc de Triomphe to the west and La Madeleine, just down the road. I’m personally a real sucker for old European churches – they are more like mini-museums to me. So with its impressive dome, Saint Augustin is one of my favorites. Not many tourists venture here like they do to Notre Dame but if you just happen to be in the neighborhood, step inside and you might have the place all to yourself!
Église de la Madeleine
If its neighbor up the road, Saint Augustin, is not a must-see – do not miss stepping inside the Madeleine. If it looks familiar from somewhere, pat yourself on the back. The Madeleine was originally planned as a monument to Napoleon’s army, modeled after the Parthenon in Athens. When Napoleon lost to the Prussians, the plan no longer made sense and the Madeleine was converted to a church (what else would do with something like this back in the day?). There’s a wonderful view from the top of the stairs down to the Place de la Concorde and the National Assembly just across the river, a twin building of the Madeleine.
Inside the church, you will feel super tiny. This place is simply massive! If you’re lucky, there might even be a free concert inside, accompanied by one of the world’s largest organs. On a rainy Sunday in April, I was treated to this wonderful performance – give it a listen!
Place de la Concorde
No visitor to Paris can miss walking across Place de la Concorde. Not only is this plaza a must-see in Paris, but it is smack in the middle of so many top Paris highlights that it cannot be missed. To the west is the Champs Elysees, with a fine view of the famous avenue and the Arc de Triomphe (the views are even finer at dusk). To the east, is the entrance to the exquisite Tuileries Gardens, another must-see place in Paris (we’ll get to that in the next section). To the north and south are the twin Greek masterpieces of the Madeleine and the National Assembly, with even the Eiffel Tower making an appearance – so you get the point, lots is happening here.
The Place de la Concorde has seen a lot too. It was the site of the famous guillotines of the French Revolution days and it’s where King Louis XVI lost his head. Today, decorating the plaza is the famous obelisk, hauled over from Egypt in 1831 and two classic Italian water fountains. Be sure to walk around the northeastern corner of the plaza to admire the symmetry – so much thought has been put into Paris!
Grand Palais
Looking like the prettiest greenhouse that you’ll ever see, the Grand Palais is another iconic Parisian landmark. It was built for the Universal Exposition of 1900, a time when cities were showing off who’s got the biggest one. The mostly steel and glass structure is still a working exhibition hall, built in Beaux-Arts fashion. After a massive renovation, the Grand Palais is once again open to the public.
The highlight, of course, is visiting the massive space beneath the glass dome but you’ll have to find specific events that are hosted here. These range from gardening exhibitions to a famous equestrian show, but even to festivals like the Cinema Paradiso, where classic movies are shown on a huge screen with lots of partying in between (±€30). I was fortunate enough to see the greatest movie ever made under the glass dome and I’m talking of course about Top Gun!
Apart from large events, there are galleries at either end of the Grand Palais and there’s always something interesting there. I visited an art exhibition dedicated to the work of Spanish painter Diego Velázquez and though you don’t get to venture underneath the dome, these temporary exhibitions are usually magnificent. Check out what’s currently showing at the Grand Palais when you visit and always buy your ticket in advance to avoid the queues.
Petit Palais
The little sister just across the street from the Grand Palais is free to enter at all times. The Petit Palais is home to the Fine Arts Museum (Musée des beaux-arts de la Ville de Paris) and if you’re already in the area, be sure to venture inside. There’s also a charming cafe in the garden that’s just perfect for a coffee break before hitting the road.
Alexandre III Bridge
The left and right banks of the Seine are connected by many bridges but none are prettier than the Pont Alexandre III, another must-see Parisian highlight. It connects the Champs-Élysées district with the Invalides and it does so in classic Paris style. Like the Grand & Petit Palais, the bridge is another one of those grand construction projects to show Paris off to the world in the Universal Exposition of 1900. Famous for its gilded ornaments and Art Nouveau lamps, the bridge is one of the most romantic spots in Paris, so it’s no wonder why so many couples come here for their pre-wedding super-cheesy photoshoot.
During spring and summer, there’s better action happening beneath the bridge than on its top, with super cool pop-up bars springing to life on the left bank of the Seine. It’s the perfect spot in Paris to end your day. Bring your drinks or grab a spot in one of the bars and enjoy the last few hours of what will probably be another one of those days in Paris that you just didn’t want to come to an end.
Places to Shop
Around Place de la Madeleine
The area around the Place de la Madeleine is one of the most expensive in Paris, so it’s no wonder that you’ll find some of Paris’s best gourmet food shops dotted around the plaza. I especially love the Maille shop, experts in French mustard. You’ll find here flavors and concoctions that are nowhere else to be found. You can also satisfy your sweet tooth around this part of town with legendary macaron maker Ladurée, making exquisite works of art from these tiny (and expensive) sweet delights. There’s also a small flower market on the western side of the plaza, one of the oldest in Paris.
Rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré
Rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré is probably a street where you’ll mostly do window shopping. Chauffeurs in luxury cars await shoppers inside luxury boutiques like Hermes and Yves Saint Laurent. It’s poshest as your near Place Vendôme and quieter as you head further west. At the cute Place Beauvau, you’ll intersect with the Élysée Palace, home of the President of France and a heavily guarded area. Unless you’re invited for dinner, there’s not much to see behind these guarded gates but you can grab a photo with the guards.
Rue de Lévis
One of the things that impressed me the most about Paris was the fact that despite being a megacity, it’s still a place that’s designed for people to live in it. Every Parisian neighborhood has its market street and the 8th arrondissement has the lovely Rue de Lévis. When I was living in Paris for 3 months, I used to come here a lot to pick up a fresh baguette, a delicious roasted chicken, fresh fruits & vegetables and… you get the point. On Mondays, the market is closed (as are quite a few shops & restaurants in Paris) and weekends are the best time to visit if you’re around. Parc Monceau is just around the corner so bring along a blanket and buy whatever it is you crave for a nice picnic in the park, like a true Parisian!
I also loved grabbing a spot in the sunny terrasse of Cafe le Dome and watching life go by over a long cup of coffee and a croissant!
Continue to the ‘center section’ to plan the rest of your Grand Boulevards itinerary!
