5 Days In Hiva Oa itinerary

Day 5: Road Trip To Puamau

The final day of this Hiva Oa itinerary will be the busiest one, so I suggest starting early. You’ll drive from Atuona to Puamau, a total distance of only 98 kilometers that will take you the entire day. Most of the way used to be on a dirt track but in 2020, a project began to pave the entire length from Atuona to Puamau so you now have a lot more time to stop on the way. Plan for a picnic lunch in Puamau. There is a small restaurant in the remote village but it may or may not be open. You can embark on this memorable road trip with a rented car or by joining a guided tour. Have a look at the Hiva Oa Travel Guide for more info.

The Smiling Tiki

Your first stop will be just before the airport. Look for the sign to the ‘smiling tiki’ (tiki souriant), park the car, and walk down for about 400 meters to see this cute (and lonely) little statue.  

Panoramic Views

Back in the car, take a right at the roundabout past the airport. You’ll be driving on dirt roads for the better part of what’s to come. Stop wherever you feel like on the plateau for sweeping views of Atuona Bay and Tahuata Island in the far distance.

Motuua, Nahoe and Eiaone Bay

As you descend from the plateau to the northern side of the island, this is where things really start to get interesting. 

Your entire time on this side of the island will be spent winding your way along the sea cliff, coming down only to pass through the tiny hamlets of Motuua, Nahoe, and Eiaone Bay.

Absolutely nothing happens here but that’s part of the appeal. Each settlement sits at the mouth of a lush valley, with a black sand beach meeting the open ocean. It used to be a tough drive to get here, but now that the road is paved, things move along much quicker. Watch out for fallen rocks but don’t let that discourage you from stopping every single time you feel like it. The views really don’t get ANY better than this!

Puamau

The coastal ‘road’ ends in the village of Puamau, looking like paradise from atop. The village is tiny, yet feels like Manhattan after what you’ve driven by for the last three hours. Cradled by high peaks, its beach is pounded by strong waves. Puamau Bay is all that remains of the second largest caldera on the island. It’s one of the most impressive spots in the Marquesas Islands, especially as you approach from atop. 

The main reason to drive all the way out here is the Lipona Archeological site, one of the best in French Polynesia and a place that should not be missed.

Lipona Archaeological Site

Adorning ancient stone platforms are the most impressive (and largest) tiki statues you’ll come across in French Polynesia. For anything bigger, you’ll have to visit Easter Island, some 3,600 km’s away! In a bid to enter the list of UNESCO World Heritage Sites, this complex is undergoing preservation work and upgrades. To protect the stone statues from the elements, they are now all sheltered. 

One of the statues is over 2.5 meters tall, while another has six fingers! Why would the ancient islanders carve these incredibly heavy statues? Who or what do they depict?

Lunch in Puamau

Check if the snack (simple restaurant) in the village is open and if not, open your picnic lunch by the beach and enjoy the sounds of crashing waves.

Hanapaaoa

You’ll now begin to head back towards Atuona, but there’s one final stop to make if you’re up for the challenge. Just passed Motuua, take a right after the post office building instead of continuing straight on the road back to Atuona. The partially paved one-lane road will snake its way along the mountain and lead you to Hanapaaoa Bay, where you’ll finish off the day.

It’s another gorgeous hamlet, very similar to the ones you already have seen today. The reason for the detour to Hanapaaoa, aside from curiosity, is the Tiki Moe One. The bizarre statue lies hidden somewhere in the forest. Drive past the cemetery, park the car and ask one of the locals to take you because there’s no way you’ll find it on your own (500F should do the trick).

The tiki lies in an ancient temple that has yet to be excavated. You’ll definitely feel walking on the smooth rocks of the ancient complex, and even see human bones scattered on the ground.

Tiki Moe One

Your guide will then reveal the small statue, ‘enjoying’ centuries of incredible views! It is believed that this tiki used to be taken down to the beach at a particular time of the year, to be bathed and pampered before returning to its favorite spot. Nobody really knows why definitely not the locals who have lost most of their ancient religious ways.

Drive Back To Atuona

It’s now back to Atuona to wrap up this incredible day. To sum up: 98 kilometers, challenging drive, lots of stops, bring everything you need for the day. More info on this day in the Hiva Oa Travel Guide.

What’s Next?

This sample Hiva Oa itinerary is action-packed, but so is Hiva Oa. If I had to take one day out, it would probably be the third day. For more information about Hiva Oa and French Polynesia, check out these guides. If you are planning a multi-island visit to the Marquesas Islands, check out this sample itinerary.