2 Weeks In French Polynesia itinerary

Part 2: Moorea (4 Days) Or Marquesas / Austral Islands (7 Days)

Our two weeks in French Polynesia itinerary now requires making some decisions. For those looking for more fun in the sun and the ‘classic’ South Pacific holiday, continue to neighboring Moorea (Option A). Those focusing on nature and culture head to the distant Marquesas Islands or the southern Austral Islands. This detour off the beaten track brings you to remote islands but requires devoting an entire week (Option B). 

Option A: Moorea (4 days)

The island of Moorea is just 30 minutes by ferry from busy Papeete. Once you land on its shores, you finally start to fully unwind and adjust your biological clock to “island time”. 

Where to Stay in Moorea

Moorea is one of the most visited islands in French Polynesia, and as such, it offers a wide range of accommodations to suit all budgets. The best part of the island to base yourself on is somewhere between Haapiti and Papetoai. The lagoon is wide here, and the sunsets are to die for. Avoid the island’s south end, as it lacks major attractions or dining options. 

Resorts

The Hilton Moorea is the best resort on the island. It’s currently the only five-star resort in Moorea. It’s at the foot of Mount Rotui and offers splendid views and good snorkeling. Next up is the Sofitel Moorea, which will soon upgrade to a five-star category. It’s located on the east coast on sandy Temae Beach. After the closure of the InterContinental Moorea in 2020, the Manava Beach Resort is the remaining option. It’s conveniently located just outside Maharepa, the largest village in Moorea. At some point, the grounds of the former InterContinental will house a new resort. 

Pensions

There’s a large selection of pensions (bed & breakfasts) and beach lodges in the prime areas of the island. Pensions range from simple accommodation to pampering “boutique” style lodgings. My top recommendations include Moorea Beach Lodge, Moorea Island Beach, Moorea Green Lodge, Pension Poerani, and the family-friendly Linareva Resort (not actually a resort). Unlike pensions on other islands, most of Moorea’s pensions do not offer half-board stays, so you’ll need to go out for dinner. 

Hotels

This rare category (in French Polynesia) is somewhere between a resort and a pension regarding offered services. In Moorea, the Hotel les Tipaniers is the best choice. It’s popular with families and lies on arguably the best public beach on the island. It has a beach restaurant, a dive center, and boat rental. The twin islets (motu) are just a short kayak paddle away. The beach is great for swimming, snorkeling, and kitesurfing. Another option is Hotel Hibiscus, which offers both garden bungalows and hotel-style rooms. The recently-opened Cook’s Bay Hotel offers a different flavor, being located in the heart of one of the island’s deep bays.

what to do in Moorea

I recommend renting a car for your stay on Moorea as you can easily explore most of it at your own pace. Of course, you can also sightsee by joining guided tours on a private or shared basis.

Most of Moorea’s interesting sites are on the island’s dramatic north coast, dominated by a pair of deep bays that shape the island like a heart when viewed from the air. Spend your time driving to the Belvedere, Moorea’s most famous scenic lookout, explore archeological sites, and relax on one of the island’s beautiful public beaches. On the following days, explore the island’s lagoon and say hello to the resident stingrays. Alternatively, book a table at the Coco Beach Restaurant and combine lunch with some beach time. Moorea is also home to some of the best hikes in French Polynesia. Some can be done on your own, but some require a guide for your safety. 

Option B: Marquesas or Austral Islands (7 Days)

The Marquesas Islands form French Polynesia‘s northernmost archipelago, while the Austral Islands form the southernmost extreme. Both require longer flights to reach and are just about as remote as you can go in shorts and a T-shirt. Due to the high cost of flights and the diversity of islands within each archipelago, it’s best to dedicate an entire week to either option. You’ll be able to visit two islands in each archipelago during this week.

The Marquesas Islands

These high volcanic islands have no protective reef, offering the few visitors who make it here wild natural beauty beyond imagination. The most well-connected islands are also the largest: Nuku Hiva in the north and Hiva Oa in the South. Over the course of a whole week, you can see all the major highlights on these two islands, but don’t expect to be doing any form of relaxation. If those two stops aren’t as off-the-grid as you want, swap one island (I recommend Hiva Oa) in favor of Ua Pou. 

Nuku Hiva

Nuku Hiva is the second biggest island in French Polynesia. It’s also one of the territory’s wildest and most diverse islands. For a luxury stay, Le Nuku Hiva (formerly Keikahanui Pearl Lodge) is the best option in Nuku Hiva. For a pension stay, look no further than Pension Koku’u. Hosts Alvane, Claudine, and their family live in a simple home on a hill overlooking Taiohae Bay, just a 15-minute walk from the center of the village. Other options include the Hee Tai Inn, Pension Moana Nui, and Pension Mave Mai.

Sightseeing in Nuku Hiva already begins with the scenic 90-minute commute from the airport to the picturesque Taiohae Village. You’ll stop along the drive to take in the dramatic sites. Once you’re settled, explore Taiohae, with its beautiful beach, peculiar cathedral, and crafts center.

Each of the following days consists of a packed itinerary. Book a spot with Ana and Tangy from Cannibal Art and hike the length of the Hakaui Valley to reach Vaipo Waterfall. Rent a 4X4 or join a guided tour and explore the “far side” of the island. The beautiful drive leads to Hatiheu with its sharp cliffs. From here, head to A’akapa or hike to Anaho Bay.

Hiva Oa

Hiva Oa is so beautiful and tranquil that even Paul Gauguin and Jacques Brel couldn’t resist its charm and simply stayed. Stay at the friendly Pension Kanahau or pamper yourself with a stay at Hanakee Lodge. Other solid pension options include Relais Moehau (which also has a restaurant that’s open to the public for lunch and dinner), Villa Enata, and Pension Temetiu Village.

Spend your first day wandering around Atuona, checking out the wild black sand beach, picking some fruit off the trees, and making the pilgrimage to the Calvary Cemetery – where Gauguin and Brel rest for eternity. If you can get a ride from your hosts (or hitchhike), try to make the short trip from Atuona to Taaoa to check out its beach and nearby Upeke ceremonial site.

The next few days will be action-packed. Join a guided tour and visit neighboring Tahuata Island to witness life in the slow lane, explore the forest on horseback, and hike down to the dream beach in Hanatekuua. Hiva Oa’s top highlight is the drive from Atuona to Puamau. On this scenic drive, you’ll pass bay after bay hiding sleepy hamlets, finally reaching the Lipona archeological site – home to NBA-sized and six-fingered tiki statues.

The Austral Islands

The southernmost archipelago in French Polynesia presents the few who visit with a preserved, authentic, and wildly diverse experience. Apart from the Gambier Islands, this is the least-visited archipelago. Some say that a visit to the Australs provides a sense of how the Society Islands may have felt like decades ago. Islanders are still very family-oriented and traditional.

Moreover, the Austral Islands are ideal for watching or swimming with humpback whales. The most interesting stops in the chain that can be traveled to by plane are Rurutu and Raivavae, though you might need to overnight in Tubuai due to the inter-island flight schedule.

Rurutu

Rurutu is the most visited island in the Australs, and for good reason. There’s so much to see and do, from swimming with humpback whales to venturing into bizarre caves and getting to know proud and skillful locals. Pensions and lodges are spread around the northern section of the island. I recommend staying at Vaitumu Village. Their location is unbeatable, and the quality of the place leaves you with a taste for more. 

On your first day in Rurutu, hop on a boat and swim with humpback whales. Between July and October, Rurutu is the best place in the South Pacific for seeing and swimming with whales. For the rest of the day, join a guided tour and circle the island while getting a sense of local life through the eyes of your guide. Your tour includes a cave visit and a great vista over picturesque Avera Bay. 

On the following days, hire a guide and hike to the “Monster’s Cave”. This is one of the most famous frames in French Polynesia. The hike is slightly challenging and includes visits to additional caves along the trail. If you’re up for more adventure, ask your guide to take you to secret caves where you’ll head underground and reach natural swimming holes fed by trickling rainwater. Hikers should also pick up the trail and summit Mount Manureva for additional views and a chance to spot whales. 

Raivavae

It might sound like a travel cliche, but visiting Raivavae feels like going back in time. Locals say that Raivavae feels the way Bora Bora was a few decades ago. I wasn’t around back then, but I can certainly vouch for this seldom-visited island’s authenticity.

With only a few tourists on the island at any given time and with the pace of life moving in slow gear, visit Raivavae if you’re truly seeking to get off the beaten track. And we haven’t even mentioned the island’s impressive natural beauty, marked by successive high peaks and a clear lagoon dotted with nearly 30 islets (motu). Stay at Pension Vaimano and enjoy simple but warm hospitality, with bungalows perched on a hillside facing Motu Piscine. 

On your first day, circle the island by bicycle or as part of a guided tour with your hosts. You’ll visit ancient ceremonial sites (marae), the island’s famous “smiling tiki”, and learn about island life. 

During the next days, climb Mount Hiro’s summit, among the finest hikes in French Polynesia. The views from the ridge and summit are unparalleled, and there’s a good chance you’ll be the only one here. Lastly, don’t miss venturing to Motu Piscine. This dreamy sliver of white sand has some of the clearest water in the Pacific. It’s also among the best beaches in French Polynesia.