Last updated on March 9th, 2022
Listed here are specific travel tips for Fakarava to help with the planning stages of your visit.
Every island in French Polynesia is different, so choosing the right mix of islands can be a challenging task. The same is true for the Tuamotu Atolls. Though similar in look, they each offer something slightly different. Listed below are what I consider the pros and cons of the “big three”, the most visited stops in the archipelago. For a more in-depth look, here’s a guide on how to choose which atoll to visit in French Polynesia.
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Fakarava can be enjoyed even when you’re not diving. To figure out how many days you need: (1) think about how many dives you want to do, taking into account you can do 2-3 dives per day (2) add a couple of days for relaxing, exploring the atoll and heading to the pink sand beach by the south pass (3) take into account if you’ll be diving elsewhere in the Tuamotus, like in Rangiroa for example.
If you’re looking to do serious diving in the south pass (more than 2 dives), consider basing yourself there for a few days and then transferring back to the main motu.
Unlike the Society Islands, the Tuamotu Archipelago sees slightly different weather patterns. You’ll be able to dive year-round, though keep in mind that seas are a bit rougher during the ‘dry season’ (June – September) when the southeasterly trade wind blows. During the ‘wet season’ (November – April), you’ll get a passing storm that never sticks around for too long as there are no mountains to slow them down. During this time, you might get a full week of cloudy weather and periods of rain that lead to lagoon excursions getting canceled. The month before and after each season is probably the best time to visit. It’s not too hot, not too cloudy and not too windy.
I spent 8 days in Fakarava during February, having arrived from neighboring Rangiroa where the weather was similar. I had nothing but sunshine for 5.5 out of those 8 days.
By Air: by far the most convenient way to get to Fakarava. Direct flights are available from Tahiti (70 mins), Rangiroa (30 mins) and a couple of small atolls in the archipelago. It is possible to fly from Rangiroa to Fakarava without having to connect in Papeete. As always, if you’re visiting multiple islands in French Polynesia, inquire about the Air Tahiti Pass.
Overcome Air Tahiti’s 10kg weight limit on checked baggage by presenting your dive card. This should give you an extra 5kg and they hardly ever ask to see if you have equipment beyond a snorkel (which you technically should)!
By Boat: getting to Fakarava on a cargo ship is possible but very challenging. You’ll need to be very flexible with your time, lucky and speaking French will go a long way. The Saint Xavier Maris Stella IV serves the Tuamotus from Papeete and it may or may not carry passengers.
By Yacht: you can cruise around some of the atolls on a chartered yacht. Have a look at Dream Charter Yacht for all the options.
To/From Airport: the airport is located about 4 km’s from Rotoava Village and all accommodations will pick you up (almost always for free).
Around Fakarava: the best way to get around the main motu is by bicycle. A sealed road runs from Rotoava to the airport in the north and about 10 km’s down south. It’s flat and easily doable on a bicycle. Beyond the airport, a cyclable dirt road runs all the way to the lagoon pass, also marked by the same PK markers that indicate distances on the sealed roads.
Fakarava’s two lagoon passes are a scuba diver’s paradise but it is the more remote south pass that is considered the best (see “where to stay in Fakarava”). Aside from chartering a boat, getting to the south pass is possible either by staying at one of the pensions located near the pass or by joining a day trip to the pink sand beaches. Some dive centers will periodically take divers on a day trip of diving in the south pass.
Much like the island vibe, the accommodations in Fakarava are as laid back as can be. There are currently no resorts on the island, just family-owned pensions. It’s important to note that Fakarava is split into two “mini destinations”, each centered around a lagoon pass. Close to the north pass is Rotoava Village, the main settlement on the atoll. Further south, the abandoned Tetamanu Village lies next to the south pass. This remote part of the island is close to the most known dive sites and the pink sand beaches but required a lengthy boat transfer to/from the airport or Rotoava.
Fakarava North
The most high-end option in the north part of the island is the Havaiki Lodge. This pension has beachfront properties as well as lower-priced options further back. Its location cannot be beaten and its restaurant is open to outside guests. Other solid pensions include Pension Veke Veke (great location), Pension Vaiama, Tokerau Village & Paparara (slightly remote but within cycling distance from the main village), and Kori Kori (very basic).
Backpackers, budget travelers and campers should look into the Relais Marama. Accommodations range from simple one-bedroom open-air bungalows facing the reef, to larger family units in the gardenia and noni-filled garden, and even a handful of camping spots to pitch your tent. Units are simple but comfortable, with a mosquito net, small balcony, and even a lockable cabinet. As for the sleep quality? You’ll be sleeping like a baby to the sounds of the crashing waves on the reef just meters away. If there’s a breeze at night, you might even need to cover up.
Fakarava South
If you’re staying at one of the pensions in the south pass, your hosts will arrange the transfer, based on Air Tahiti arrival and departure times. Since the journey is quite long, on days when there are several flights, you might be instructed to wait. The “main” accommodation right on the south pass is Pension Tetamanu. However, slightly friendlier options can be found at Pension Raimiti and Pension Motu Aito. Due to their remoteness, pensions need to be self-sufficient so don’t expect luxury or even 24-hour electricity. Some pensions have strict booking conditions and some can bundle your stay with a dive and tour package.
Fakarava is a tropical destination, and as such – I recommend packing clothes that dry quickly and keep moisture (a.k.a sweat) out. Have a look at the X Days In Y Packing List for recommendations on what to pack for Fakarava based on my experience.
There is one ATM in Fakarava. You’ll find it at the post office and it does accept international cards. However, it may or may not work and some ATMs in French Polynesia have daily/weekly cash withdrawal limits. Inquire ahead of time at your pension if credit cards are accepted (shouldn’t be a problem). Dive centers accept credit cards.
A Vodafone SIM card will likely NOT have reception in Fakarava but should double-check that in Tahiti before purchasing. You’re better off with a Vini SIM card as they have coverage on all islands. Slow to adequate WiFi should be available free of charge in most accommodations but perhaps only in the common areas.
Here’s a breakdown of costs during my 8 days in Fakarava during my first visit in 2016. I stayed in a simple accommodation, did 5 dives and went on a full-day lagoon excursion.
Fakarava is designated as a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve, with restrictions on commercial fishing and pollution in place, all in agreement with the local population. The exquisite marine life and coral are like no other I’ve personally seen anywhere in the South Pacific.
The snorkeling in Fakarava is superb and easily accessible. The water is clean, clear and good spots are to be found pretty much anywhere along the lagoon. I particularly enjoyed the snorkeling outside the village, along the sealed road before the airport, and of the breathtaking PK9 beach. I was also tipped off by a local that riding south of the village will bring you to lovely and secluded spots.
As for diving, Fakarava is rewarding every single dive. Not only will you encounter walls of sharks and thrilling drift dives back into the lagoon, but you’ll also witness some of the most pristine coral in the entire South Pacific. The protection that the Biosphere Reserve provides, combined with the direction the reef faces (away from the prevailing winds) – allows the coral to grow and flourish in Fakarava. It comes in all shapes, sizes, and most importantly – color! Keep in mind that dive centers only take CMAS and advanced SSI/PADI divers on extra challenging dives. This is for your own safety.
I went diving with Dive Spirit Fakarava, currently operated by Yannick and Henri. Part of the totally worth it Te Moana Pass, divers are taken very seriously and personally here and it all starts the day before you dive. The owners or guides will meet you at your pension, sort out all the paperwork and make any changes to your dive schedule in case a spot opened up.
The following day, you’ll be picked up and driven to the dive center – located in a beautiful spot by the lagoon. Grab your gear, some morning coffee, and start your briefing. Safety is paramount, especially when drift diving in the wide north pass. Your instructor will also brief you on what to look out for and how to maximize the chances of seeing the ‘good stuff’. Each one carries an erasable board, used for scribbling down what it is you’re seeing throughout the dive.
Dive Spirit Fakarava offer ‘fun dives’, snorkeling trips, dive certifications, daily trips to the north pass and occasional trips to the south pass. Morning dives are two tanks with a break on the boat or a beautiful beach, while afternoon dives are single tank. The more dives you do, the better the price gets. Book early as space is limited.
There are plenty of more dive photos and stories in the ‘things to do’ section, but here’s more useful information for planning your dives.
Unlike Rangiroa, Fakarava has amazing beaches that are a short bicycle ride away. The best one is called PK9 (see ‘things to do’ section) and there are infinitely more (including pink sand beaches) on the more distant motus around the lagoon.
Water in the Tuamotu Atolls only comes from the rain. Therefore, unless your pension offers filtered water, you’ll have to buy bottled water in Fakarava.
I hate to disappoint you but much like in Rangiroa, there isn’t much choice when it comes to fruits and vegetables in Fakarava. Don’t forget – you’re on a coral atoll. The soil isn’t fertile, the wind blows right through and there’s not much rain. You’ll find that shops sell mostly canned goods and imported fruits & vegetables if you’re lucky. Locals pre-order fresh produce which arrives on the weekly cargo ship and there isn’t much leftover. Coconuts, on the other hand, are not a problem to find!
Your pension might offer the opportunity to go half board, including breakfast and dinner. In any case, Fakarava has a few good snacks for breakfast, lunch and dinner. Nearly all will pick you and drop you off for dinner, or deliver food to your pension.
See the ‘places to eat’ section for specific recommendations.
For general safety tips in French Polynesia, have a look at the ‘safety’ section of the French Polynesia Travel Guide.
As for Fakarava specific safety tips:
There are three popular excursions in Fakarava: the ‘blue lagoon’ (~7000F for ½ day, 9000F full day), beach picnic (~4000F), and the pink sand beach (~12000F) – which we’ll cover in great depth later. If you must pick one, it should definitely be the pink sand beach. I heard that the blue lagoon is nothing special and you can easily cycle to the beach where the picnic is proposed on your own (it’s PK 9 beach).
I strongly recommend going on these excursions during the first days of your visit to Fakarava. Why? Though it makes for a perfect way to spend your last day on the atoll (you shouldn’t dive in most cases), these excursions are very prone to cancellations due to weather and minimum passengers required. So, if you don’t want any last-minute surprises, get these out of the way early to allow for extra flexibility. Diving will almost always be possible in Fakarava.