Hiva Oa Travel Guide
Hiva Oa Island Travel Tips
Listed here are specific travel tips for Hiva Oa.
Recommended Reading
The Island Where Time Stands Still: a personal account of my first trip to Hiva Oa.
Traveling in Hiva Oa & Ua Pou: a personal account of my second visit to the island in October 2020.
French Polynesia Travel Guide: everything you need to know before heading to paradise.
Lonely Planet: ‘the bible’ for any independent traveler. For such a dreamy yet challenging destination, I recommend grabbing one for the road to go along with this travel guide.
Tahiti Tourisme: the official site of the local tourism office. You’ll find relevant information about Tahiti and the outer islands.
How Many Days Do You Need In Hiva Oa?
The Marquesas Islands are truly fairytale islands, far from Tahiti and expensive to get to. If you wish to fully explore Hiva Oa, 4-5 nights are necessary and three nights are the absolute minimum. If you’re planning to see more than one island in the archipelago (Nuku Hiva goes very well with Hiva Oa), plan for at least 7-10 days in the archipelago. This 12-day sample itinerary includes all the highlights in Hiva Oa, Nuku Hiva, and Ua Pou.
Is Hiva Oa Worth Visiting?
Honestly, if you have the chance to visit the Marquesas Islands, don’t miss it! I visited Nuku Hiva, Ua Pou, and Hiva Oa and was wowed by all three. All three are similar in terms of scenery and activities, but Nuku Hiva is slightly more dramatic if you had to choose just one island to visit.
When Is the Best Time To Visit Hiva Oa?
The closest islands in French Polynesia to the equator, the Marquesas Islands climate is pretty much opposite to that of Tahiti and the Society Islands. The best time to visit the Marquesas Islands is between October to April, when the islands get less cloud cover and rain. From May to October, there’s a greater chance of storms and strong wind. I personally visited Hiva Oa for the first time at the end of February/start of March. The weather was mixed, with super sunny days and a couple of rainy days that never lasted for too long. Keep in mind that the peaks of this high island are almost always covered in clouds, but coastal areas stay sunny and cloud-free! On my second visit, I arrived in October and the weather was superb.
Festival lovers should aim to visit during the Marquesas Arts Festival, taking place every four years, usually in December and alternating between Nuku Hiva, Ua Pou, and Hiva Oa. Every two years, a “mini-festival” is held. The festival is a gathering of artists and teams from the islands who represent their village in traditional sports, dance, and song. You’ll need to make arrangements well in advance and aim to stay for the first three days of the festival. The first day is for welcoming various teams. Spirits are high and the party is long. The second and third days are devoted to competition, and by the fourth day, things really begin to slow down.
How To Get To Hiva Oa
By Air: by far the most convenient way to get to Hiva Oa, with direct flights from Tahiti (~3 hours) by Air Tahiti and newcomer Air Moana. Hiva Oa is also connected with Nuku Hiva (~30 mins), making the two islands worthwhile to explore on a single trip. You can also fly from Hiva Oa to some of the smaller islands. I recommend visiting Hiva Oa before Nuku Hiva, as the latter is slightly more dramatic.
Flights to any island in the Marquesas are expensive, but if you’re visiting multiple islands in French Polynesia, consider buying one of the Air Tahiti Passes and adding on the ‘Marquesas extension’. Bring something warm for the plane and as always, be sure to grab a window seat for the memorable views!
If you have to catch a flight (domestic or international) or a boat to Moorea, give yourself a buffer and take into account delays. Weather can be foggy and flights delayed for hours.
By Boat: the luxury liner/cargo ship – The Aranui, visits pretty much all of the Marquesas Islands as it resupplies the locals and picks up exports back to Tahiti. Trips aren’t cheap but you’ll spend the day on each island. The ship usually also stops in Rangiroa or another atoll in the Tuamotus, plus a visit to Bora Bora. I personally would not enjoy this, as you have such little time on such gorgeous islands. Nonetheless, the Aranui usually books out very quickly.
Getting to Fatu Hiva From Hiva Oa
Fatu Hiva is the southernmost island in the Marquesas archipelago, said to be the most impressive and wild. The problem is that the only way to get there is by boat. Unless you own a yacht, you can charter one for 60,000F each way (makes sense if you’re in a group), or try booking a spot on the weekly or twice-weekly boat trip carried by the local administration (approx 4,000 XPF each way). Contact Tania Amaru from Pension Kanahau who can help sort your transfer to/from Fatu Hiva (Facebook page or tania.tania@live.fr). If traveling by public taxi boat, there’s a good chance you’ll have three days to spend on Fatu Hiva. The last option is trying your luck with the Aranui, which may or may not have a spot for you (~8,000 including food, sails at night, and arrives in the morning).
Getting Around Hiva Oa
Pop by the tourist office in ‘downtown’ Atuona, and pick up free a map of the island.
To/from airport: Hiva Oa’s Jacques Brel airport is miraculously built on a small plateau in the mountains surrounding Atuona. Unlike neighboring Nuku Hiva, it’s a quick 10-15 minute ride to the village, and accommodations will either pick you up for free or for ~3000F.
To/from Atuona: most accommodations are never too far from the main village, and in fact, it makes for a scenic walk. Some pensions also offer free rides to and from Atuona. Otherwise, you can cycle or hitch a ride.
By Car: if you’re not joining an island tour, you can rent your own 4X4 and explore the island. In fact, I highly recommend doing so. You can rent a 4WD from as low as 6,000F for 6 hours, 10,000F if you return by 7 pm, and 12,000F for 24 hours (cash only at the time of writing this guide). Discounts are available on longer rentals and companies might bring the car to your accommodation. Contact Atuona Rent a Car, Make Make Rentals, or Hiva Oa Location for more information.
By Tour: organized tours are a great way to not only see the island’s top highlights but also to get to know the culture and learn about the history. Guides are usually very passionate about their work and, if there’s a good connection, they might even invite you to hang out with their family after the tour. If you’re staying at the Pearl Lodge, tours will be arranged for you. Otherwise, get in touch with Pifa O’Connor from Pifavae Excursion and tell him Avi from Israel says hello (Facebook page or email at pifavaexcurssion@gmail.com). If you’re able to join a shared tour, the cost should certainly be affordable. If you’re a group of travelers, it makes sense to hire a guide for a private tour (approx 20,000 XPF). If Pifa is not available, try getting in touch with Hiva Oa Aventures.
Where To Stay In Hiva Oa?
All accommodations in Hiva Oa are located in the main village of Atuona or just outside, in the hills overlooking neighboring Tahauku Bay. Your pension stay will most likely be on a half-board basis (breakfast and dinner included) but, if this is not the case, dinner options are available in the village or at the Hanakee Lodge. It’s best to book well in advance if you have your heart set on a particular spot.
For a luxury stay, the Hanakee Lodge is currently the only option in Hiva Oa. This high-end lodge operates tours around the island and neighboring Tahuata for its guests. Apart from the majestic views, the rooms are modern and there’s a restaurant on site. The lodge also hosts cultural shows on certain nights so inquire before if planning to dine there as outside guests.
In the pension category, I stayed twice at Pension Kanahau. The pension is owned and operated by Tania Amaru, my unofficial “Queen of Hiva Oa”. I call her that because she’s the friendliest host you’ll ever meet. Tania takes excellent care of her guests though she stopped serving dinner recently, except on special occasions (this may have changed by now).
Bungalows are spread throughout the garden and some are equipped with a kitchen. Breakfasts are generous and include a large selection of homemade jams and baked goods. This property is set to undergo renovations in the short term. If you stay here, be sure to say hello to Tania from Avi (from Israel).
Other solid pension options include Relais Moehau (which also has a restaurant that’s open to the public for lunch and dinner), Villa Enata, and Pension Temetiu Village. You might also find a few options on Airbnb and Booking.com.
Time Difference
Yet another proof of the archipelago’s remoteness, the Marquesas Islands are 30 minutes ahead of Tahiti time. Don’t forget to adjust your watch!
Language
Though mostly speaking French these days, the native language in the archipelago is Marquesan and not Tahitian. So replace ia orana with ka oha (hello) and manuia with maitai roa (cheers). There is also a slight variation in dialect between the northern group (Nuku Hiva) and the southern group (Hiva Oa).
What To Pack?
Hiva Oa is a tropical destination, and as such – I recommend packing clothes that dry quickly and keep moisture (a.k.a sweat) out. Have a look at the X Days In Y Packing List for recommendations on what to pack for Hiva Oa based on my experience. Always be prepared for rain and don’t forget to pack hiking gear for your trip to the Marquesas Islands.
Money
There is an ATM in Hiva Oa, in the main village of Atuona. Keep in mind that most ATMs on the outer islands have daily/weekly cash withdrawal limits. Inquire with your hosts if they accept credit cards and factor in for excursions, transportation, and shopping.
Internet
Free WiFi was available at my pension, though it was extremely slow. You can also get online at the Salon de The (Chez Eliane) in Atuona.
WiFi & Mobile Data In Hiva Oa
At present, Vini is the only mobile carrier with reception and data service in Hiva Oa and the Marquesas Islands. Even Vini users may experience 2G coverage in some parts of the island. Vodafone does not currently have coverage on the island. WiFi should be free and accessible in all pensions, though it will most likely be slow and only available in common areas.
Hiva Oa Average Costs
Here’s a breakdown of costs during my 5 days in Hiva Oa in 2016. I stayed half board at a pension, rented a 4X4 for one day, went horseback riding and joined a tour to Tahuata Island.
Diving In The Marquesas Islands
The Marquesas Islands have no protective lagoon. It is possible to scuba dive here, but expect challenging conditions and poor visibility due to the currents and plankton. That said, you might get to see whales, dolphins, and sharks. In Hiva Oa, get in touch with Marquises Diving which offers day trips that combine a visit to Tahuata Island with diving and a picnic lunch. They may or may not be available when you’re in Hiva so it’s best not to count on this option too much.
Hiking & Excursions In Hiva Oa
Hiva Oa is all about exploring the magnificent nature of the island. When it comes to hiking, Hanatekuua Bay can be done on your own but that’s about it. All other hikes, including the cross-island trek, will require a guide and can be very expensive.
As far as excursions, the day trip to neighboring Tahuata Island is not to be missed and you can also join a 4X4 island tour of Hiva Oa. I highly recommend making arrangements for either of these as early as possible since there aren’t that many guides available on the island, tours require a minimum amount of passengers, poor weather can lead to cancellations, and lastly, when the Aranui is in town – all guides are fully booked. Contact Pifa O’Connor from Pifavae Excursion and tell him Avi from Israel says hello (Facebook page or email at pifavaexcurssion@gmail.com). Pifa speaks excellent English (super rare around here) and can take you hiking, to Tahuata Island, and around Hiva Oa. He also works as a fireman so not always available. Horseback riding should not be a problem to book. If Pifa is not available, try getting in touch with Hiva Oa Aventures.
See the ‘things to do’ section for lots more information.
Beaches
Hiva Oa has amazing beaches that you’ll likely have all to yourself. Keep in mind that swimming is possible but usually rough due to the lack of a protective reef. While the sand is beautifully golden, it is home to millions of the infamous sandflies of the Marquesas Islands. Known as nono, they are not native to the islands but their bite will itch for days and might leave a mark. It’s best to rub on some citronella-scented monoi oil when hitting the beach.
Drinking Water In Hiva Oa
Do not drink tap water in Hiva Oa! If your pension does not offer filtered water, you’ll have to stock up on bottled water.
Eating
It makes sense to stay half board at your pension, especially if the cooking is to your liking. In any case, Atuona has a couple of grocery shops, snacks, and a cafe. You can also dine as outside guests at the Hanakee Lodge. Whenever you’re heading out on a hike or road trip, take food with you.
Safety In Hiva Oa
For general safety tips in French Polynesia, have a look at the ‘safety’ section of the French Polynesia Travel Guide.
As for Hiva Oa specific safety tips:
- Bring comfortable hiking gear.
- If you’ll be heading out to Tahuata Island and tend to get seasick, have some pills ready.
- If you’re renting a car, drive with extra care, especially if there are still any unsealed roads on the northeastern side of the island. It’s best to ensure you have enough phone credit to make any emergency calls. In the evening hours, watch out for locals who for some reason do not turn their lights on…
- Be prepared for the nono. These are tiny black or white sand flies that are actually not native to the islands. They leave a nasty bite that itches for days, and if scratched – can leave a lasting mark. The best way to avoid getting bitten is by applying layers of monoi oil (the citronella kind).
- Be mentally prepared for a lot of bugs at night. It’s best to leave the light on outside your bungalow and keep it dark inside, until going to bed.
What To Buy In Hiva Oa
While Papeete is the place to buy black pearls, the Marquesas Islands are the place to buy authentic arts and crafts. Marquesans are considered to be among the best wood and stone carvers in the South Pacific. Highlights include tiki statues fashioned from wood or volcanic rock (~3000-10,000F), wooden bowls (~5000-10,000F), sandalwood ornaments (~5000+F), bracelets, bone-carved weapons, and plenty more. Tapa can also be found, but it is super expensive. The best place to buy tapa is in Samoa.
You’ll find a covered artisan market (fae artisanal) in Atuona right behind the Tohua Pepeu archeological site, that should be open every day but Sunday. I’m glad I bought most of my Marquesan crafts in Nuku Hiva, as prices here were quite on the steep side.
Another option is to get in touch directly with an artist. Call Laina Taiaaput (+689-87212375), a local artist living in a simple home with a million-dollar view. Laina and her husband are expert woodcarvers and invite you to visit their shop. Prices here are so much cheaper than anywhere else I’ve seen.
Note that it shouldn’t be a problem bringing Marquesan crafts through customs. I passed through New Zealand, Australian, and Canadian customs with wood & stone carvings, (dried) vanilla, monoi oil, and jam.
Hiva Oa is also a good place to get a tattoo. Marquesans aren’t only exceptional at carving rock and wood, but also skin. A large tattoo on your arm or leg should cost between 20-40,0000F.
