Moorea Travel Guide

Diving In Moorea

Perfect for all levels, scuba diving in Moorea will be one the highlights of your visit to French Polynesia. Though nothing beats diving in the Tuamotu Archipelago, In Moorea you’ll be treated to the inevitable sighting of nurse sharks, sea turtles and maybe even a few other surprises from the mammal family. You’ll, of course, be diving outside the protective lagoon.

After much research, I went diving with Moorea Blue Diving. They’re located at the Manava Beach Resort (formerly the Pearl Beach Resort), and part of the totally worth it Te Moana Pass. A few years ago, French couple Diane and Stephane decided to swap the snow of the French Alps for the warm waters of Moorea. They run this lovely dive center, where you’ll get personal attention and enjoy top-notch gear. You can say that Diane & Stephane are the ‘shark experts’ in Moorea. They’ll take you to dive sites just off the twin bays where you’re almost guaranteed to see some serious sharks.

*** Save 10% off your dives when you mention the promotional code ‘X Days In Y’ to Diane & Stephane. The offer is for direct bookings not part of the Te Moana Pass ***

Our first dive was in a valley that leads into Opunohu Bay. Right off the bat, we saw a huge barracuda just chilling close to the surface as if to welcome us to his neighborhood. We then descended to 24 meters and the ocean floor, where we caught our first glimpse of a shark. This became the norm, sharks coming and going as we floated along the valley atop beautiful hard coral.

There were lots of reef sharks but also the occasional lemon sharks. These guys are the type of sharks that begin to resemble proper looking predators, though they’re almost always completely harmless.

As we got closer to the boat, huge sharks were hanging around the mooring line with others arriving to check us out. It was quite a scene, as the fish smelled the bait that was carried by one of the other dive instructors.

After some tea, cookies and amazing views of Moorea’s coastline – it was time for the second dive of the day. This time, we battled our way through the current and swam along a few channels that run in the direction of the lagoon. We would grab on to something (just not yellow coral because that’s poisonous) as the current washed out, and rode it as it swept into the lagoon. Along the way, Stephane spotted a small sea turtle just snacking away, and before we knew it, shark after shark arrived to see what the commotion was all about.

We finished off the dive scouting a few hidden caverns before Stephane spotted a sleeping nurse shark in one of them. What a good spot for a nap! Altogether, these two dives were among the best I’ve done in the South Pacific. In terms of coral, it’s very similar to Samoa and the Cook Islands but in Moorea, there’s a much greater chance of spotting more than one shark or turtle.

Here’s a video summary of my dives in Moorea with Moore Blue Diving.

Logistics: the dive sites are just minutes away and you’ll depart bright and early at 7:30 am (afternoons on Sundays only), back by 11 am with the rest of the day still free. They’ll pick you up for free if you’re staying between the Hilton and Vaiare (the ferry area). Only 10 divers can head out, so booking in advance is highly recommended. During the afternoons, certification courses and introductory dives take place inside the lagoon – great for children and for those who want to get a feel for scuba diving.

*** Save 10% off your dives when you mention the promotional code ‘X Days In Y’ to Diane & Stephane. The offer is for direct bookings not part of the Te Moana Pass ***

Excursions In Moorea

Shark & Stingray Feeding

You may have seen them when diving or snorkeling, now you have the chance to feed them (well, at least the stingrays). This is one of the highlights of a visit to Moorea and there are a handful of operators to choose from. I went with Moorea Mahana Tours on a full day lagoon excursion which also included a picnic on one the motus.

The tour begins with a quick ride to the worst kept secret in Moorea – the shark and stingray feeding area. Tour boats, jet skis, and kayaks all gather here and so do the fish. It feels very counterintuitive to step off the boat when you can clearly see dozens of shark fins zipping atop the water, but it’s all perfectly safe and enjoyable.

Take your time swimming and snorkeling around the boat, as guides hand feed the stingrays and toss a few chunks for the sharks. You too can touch the stingrays without any fear, just stay away from the spiky tail. Their skin feels like jelly and they really stick to you in search of food, not realizing they’ve already swallowed what you had in your hand. It’s an incredible and surreal experience that should not be missed. The only downside is the large number of people out here, stirring up sand and getting in your way at times.

After about 30 mins in the water with the rays and sharks, it’s back on the boat and another quick trip to one of the motus. As the crew prepares lunch, head out to the best snorkeling spot in Moorea. Right in the channel between the motus, you’ll find lots of tropical fish, massive stingrays and even moray eel hiding inside the beautiful coral.

Back on the small motu, enjoy a delicious Polynesian buffet, not before the crew teaches you how to make the national dish of French Polynesia – the poisson cru! The food is delicious and there’s plenty of beer available along with soft drinks (here’s the recipe). Post lunch activities include some more snorkeling, exploring the beautiful motu (with great views of Moorea) and yet another key lesson in island life – how to crack a coconut!

Logistics: leave at approx. 10 am and back by 2 pm. Bring with you a camera, sunscreen and a towel. They’ll give you mask and fins for snorkeling. There are half-day options that do not include the ‘picnic motu’ but I highly recommend opting for the full day if you have the time and money (~8,500F per adult). If you’re heading to Bora Bora, you have the chance to experience this there as well and in Huahine, you’ll have something very similar (and more impressive in my opinion).

Here’s a look back at this amazing day spent in the Moorea lagoon!

Lagoonarium

I heard excellent reviews about the Lagoonarium but didn’t have enough time to do it on my own. It’s very similar to the shark & stingray excursions, but with a much more local (and laid back) feel.  

ATV Tours

There are a few operators running ATV tours in Moorea, which I personally stayed away from. They will basically all take you to the Belvedere, Magical Mountain, and the Pineapple Route (see ‘things to do’ section) – which can all be seen at the comforts of your own pace with a rented car. So unless you’re really keen on driving an ATV, I would pass on this.

Hiking In Moorea

Moorea is a hiker’s paradise, offering at least a half a dozen excellent hikes for all levels. Whether on the hunt for a hidden waterfall, or walking among the island’s giant peaks – with a bit of effort you’ll be treated to spectacular views over the lagoon and get to explore the island’s rich rainforests with their unique mape trees, giant bamboo, and tropical flowers. Here are the hikes that I personally did (without a guide) during my four weeks in Moorea and a second return visit in April 2017. If you’re looking for a hiking guide in Moorea, get in touch with Hiro Damide. 

Mount Rotui Hike

It may not be the highest peak on the island of Moorea, but the hike to the summit of Mount Rotui affords views of the twin bays that you will never forget. This is a challenging hike that should not be attempted during the wet season or if it’s been raining over the past few days.

To pick up the trailhead, park your car in the Hilton Resort’s parking lot and locate the Faimano Village Hotel. Take the inland path across the road from the hotel and you will see a sign marking the trailhead and a request to pay about 200F per person (if the owner is not present, pay on the way back). From here, just follow the signs until you start to climb on the visible trail. You’ll begin an ascent that never really ends until the summit, first through dense rainforest and then along the ridgeline until the very top.

Once you clear the forest, the fun really begins. Views down to the overwater bungalows of the Hilton and the clear waters of Mareto Beach are the stuff dreams are made of, and the higher you ascend, the finer (and wider) the views of the spectacular Opunohu Bay get. There is no better place to catch such views in Moorea!

Logistics: summitting Rotui will take the full day and, as noted, do not attempt to summit during the rainy season or after a few wet days. Always watch for rain clouds moving in from the windward side and be cognizant of possible storms. It is not recommended to hike alone! Views are spectacular throughout the ridgeline section so if you see clouds covering the summit, it’s best to stop, enjoy the views and head back down. Parts of the trail can be overgrown with vegetation, especially at the start of the hiking season (April-May). If you have a machete to bring along – great, if not, be prepared to get scratched and to plow your way. In addition, watch your step: the trail will be slippery, narrow and filled with blind spots. It’s best to wear long hiking pants, good hiking shoes, hat and to bring plenty of food and water! I also advise to bring a full change of clothes and to treat yourself to a refreshing swim in Mareto Beach after the hike.

Vaiare to Paopao Hike

My absolute favorite hike in Moorea is one that crosses the island from the village of Vaiare (where the ferry is) to the village Paopao in Cook’s Bay. It’s a moderate hike which you can do on your own, assuming you can find the trailhead.

The hike starts along local orchards, filled with mangoes, papaya and that smelly yet super healthy fruit called Noni. Once in a while, a local farmer emerges out of the bush with a heavy payload of freshly picked fruits on each shoulder. This is a good time to check your bearings.

You then veer left and up the hill, through a very steep mape forest – where the roots can be used as natural steps to make your life easy. The mosquitoes are ferocious out here so just keep going!

After about an hour of climbing, you’ll make it to the ridgeline and your efforts will totally be rewarded. From up here, you’ll be treated to truly 360-degree views of both sides of the island. On the one side – Vaiare, Tahiti and the ferry going back and forth. On the other side, nothing but mountains, pineapple fields, and Cook’s Bay. What a sight! This is exactly how you had pictured French Polynesia to be and then some.

From up here, you have a few options: (1) continue down to the Opunohu Valley, eventually making it to Paopao and hitchhiking back to your car back in Vaiare (or timing it with the ferry bus). (2) Take the trail that continues from up here to the Belvedere. (3) Do what I did and turn around. Honestly, with such a view, you might as well stay up here and take a very long (and well-deserved) break.

Logistics: the only challenging part (aside from the steep climb) is locating the trailhead. You can do this hike on your own if you manage to find it. Follow the road that heads inland at the Bayside Moorea Market and keep right at the soccer field. At this point, it’s best to ask the locals living here for the trailhead, which is basically up an agricultural road to your left. Once you’re on the trail, you’ll know it – it’s used by farmers and there are red & white ribbons from time to time. It takes about 90 minutes to get to the ridgeline and 60 minutes back down to the main road. Bring plenty of water, hat, closed shoes, food, short pants are fine and a change of clothes for after!

Opunohu Valley Hike

There are quite a few hikes that venture into the lush Opunohu Valley. I did a small section of it called the Natira’a Roa hike. The easy hike takes you through a thick mape forest, before emerging into a clearing with mountain views. You then walk back down along the main road, passed the Lycee Agricole (can stop for some fresh juice or ice cream) and a few giant bamboo trees.

Logistics: take the road that heads up to the Belvedere and when you reach the bridge over the river, park the car (don’t leave anything visible inside). You’ll see a bunch of trail signs on the side of the road passed the animal fence. The hike is meant to be nearly 5 hours, but we returned well before that.

Afareaitu Waterfall

A short and easy walk along the river and through the forest will bring you to one of Moorea’s waterfalls. You might have this place all to yourself so a picnic might not be a bad idea!

Logistics: coming from Haapiti, turn inland after the hospital and continue driving. Ask the locals if you can park your car next to their house and just follow the dirt road which eventually turns into the trail. About 30 minutes of walking will bring you to the waterfall. You can just leave your car along the main road and walk everything on foot, but that should add another 20-30 minutes to your hike. Once at the waterfall, the trail continues to the second waterfall, though we couldn’t find it… Take mosquito repellent, sandals, food, drinks and obviously a swimsuit.

Three Coconuts Hike

One of the most popular and accessible walks in Moorea thanks to new signs that mark the way. The trail starts off at the Belvedere (can also start from Haapiti) and takes you first through a forest filled with mape trees and giant bamboos. You’ll cross a few freshwater streams before starting a moderately difficult climb up to the ridge. The views from here are very similar to those in the Vaiare to Paopao hike – just from the other side of the same ridge. As for the three coconuts… they are no longer here, blown away a long time in a cyclone apparently.

Logistics: if you start from the Belvedere, look for the signs in the carpark. If you’re starting from the coast in Haapiti, you’ll have to ask around for directions. No special clothing required, just comfortable shoes as always and lots of water. Expect a 90-minute hike to the top and about an hour to get back to the Belvedere car park.

Temae Hike

You won’t find this hike in the guidebooks so here’s a secret hike only locals can tell you about. If you liked the view from Toatea Lookout, you’ll love the view from the summit of this hike. It’s short, it’s steep and it’s not easy – but once you reach the summit, it’ll all be worth it. From up here, you can look down to the Sofitel Resort and Temae Beach. To your left is the lake and the airport, to your right the northern coastline of Moorea and right across the water – the big island of Tahiti. Enjoy!

Logistics: drive towards Temae Beach and just across the road from the turnoff to the beach, there’s a post office. Park the car and head up the hill either via the steps or using the trail behind the large tree in the car park. You’ll find yourself walking up towards a bunch of antennas, after which the steps turn into a proper (unmarked) trail. Follow it all the way to the summit and you can even continue for a little longer. It takes about 45 minutes of steep hiking to the summit and 20 minutes to get back down.

More hikes

I didn’t manage to hike the ‘pierced mountain’ – Moorea’s most challenging hikes. For this one, you’ll need a guide and it’s not easy to find one in the low (wet) season.

Now It’s Your Turn

I hope you’ve found this Moorea Travel Guide useful. If you have any questions or your own Moorea travel tips, leave a comment below and let’s get the conversation started!

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